Witch’s Rock Surf Camp
Tamarindo, Costa Rica
Writeup by Bill Whalen
Participants: Randy Schader and Bill Whalen
Air travel: Delta was a hassle. They altered all our flights. First, they canceled Bill’s 6am SYR departure flight and then re-scheduled him on a later 8am flight which would not get him into Atlanta in time to meet Randy and catch the 2nd 10am leg to Liberia). Therefore, Bill had to change to a 6am departure out of Rochester. After driving up to Massena for Thursday’s Thanksgiving, I had to drive back to Syracuse, grab a quick nap, and then get up at 2:30am to head to Rochester for that early flight. As I drove past the Fingerlake Outlet Mall at 4am, the lot was already full of cars waiting for the stores to open for Black Friday’s sales. Parking at Rochester airport was interesting because there were different priced parking lots depending on how close to the front door you want to park. I got the last spot on the last row in the cheap lot. The shuttle van followed me to the last parking spot and zoomed me to the terminal. So easy. My distant $4.50/day lot had a free shuttle to the front door or for $12/ day you could park closer but then had to walk to the terminal. There was an FAA rule that passengers were only allowed to carry-on liquids/gels if smaller than 4 oz. However, at the security checkpoint, many smaller 1 oz bottles were also denied. Arguing was useless. My yogurt didn’t make it thru. Randy had an 11pm Thursday flight out of LAX. On the 2nd leg, the pilot and co-pilot were named Bill and Randy respectively. Weird. At 11:50 am the pilot Bill came on the PA and said “we’ll being landing in 12 minutes”. We thought we were making a great time until after a long pause he added “after the following hour” i.e. 1:12pm. So much for our great time savings. On the return trip, the Liberia flight to Atlanta landed 30 minutes early (good), but then had to wait on the tarmac for 30 minutes for a gate to become available (boo). Then it took 1-¼ hours to pick up luggage, clear customs, recheck luggage, go thru security again and get to my gate. My plane was already boarding when I got to the gate. Bill barely made his connection. Randy missed his connecting flight by 30 minutes and had to overnight in Atlanta. The airline put him up since they were the ones that changed his schedule to allow insufficient time between flights. Then he left Atlanta on a direct 7am flight.
At checking at LAX, a couple was having difficulty checking in. “Delta said a passport isn’t needed to get to the Cayman Islands”.
Note on future travels – don’t let luggage helpers’ help. In Liberia, a person transported our luggage 50 feet from the airport door to our shuttle van. I thought he was our driver from WRSC but he wasn’t, so we had to tip him for that useless 50 feet
Shuttle ride: The driver was Leo. Rode in with Bert and Carla from Oregon. He is a cold-water surfer. She doesn’t surf. Stopped for beers ($1) each.
Rooms: we originally booked our room at El Mirago across the street from WRSC. It was only a short walk and we thought it would be quieter. It also had a cool hammock on the front patio. Loved that hammock. Safes were an extra $3 per day rental. We were in room #1, which Roberto said is the 2nd door on the left. (The first room on the left was #31.) Go figure. It was embarrassing but had to ask the front desk, Roberto, how to open the room’s door to get out. Turns out you have to work your finger behind a notch in the door frame and manually push a metal lever. Friday night is the wild night at the neighboring Monkey Bar. Bill could hear the music all night. After 2 nights, Marcela @ WRSC asked if we wanted to move into the newly built rooms at WRSC. Literally just finished. The numbers weren’t even on the door yet. We said yes. Randy moved into #13 (balcony) and Bill into #17 (no balcony). A couple of days later, Randy got moved again into #12. #12 was the best. It had 2 double beds, a wall-mounted surfboard holder, a safe, and a small balcony with a killer ocean view. #13 & #14 had a single queen bed, a balcony large enough for chairs and surfboards, great ocean view, but no safe. #14-17 was one queen bed, ocean view, no balcony, and no safe. #18 was a double room with an ocean view, no safe nor balcony.
Day 1 (fri): walked the town looking for changes. New Pizza Hut, Subway sub shop, TCBY yogurt, and a new modern strip plaza. Becoming too Americanized. Bummer. Bought large 6L water bottles. Randy rented his Robert August What I Ride 9’ surfboard. Bed at 8:15 very noisy at night due to the neighboring Monkey Bar.
Day 2 (sat): Randy’s surf trip at 6 am, my lesson at 7am. High tide at 5:20 am. I went to the surf lesson at 7am to discover it was moved to 6am. Oops. Had ½ of the huge egg burrito, ran the length of the beach, and back again in the surf in 35 minutes. Checked out a 9’4” soft top board and surfed for 1 ¼ hour. The surf break was only waist deep and getting shallower and shallower. Then a nap in the hammock. They rescheduled my lesson to a private lesson with Eduardo at 4pm, then changed it to a group lesson with Bert and then changed it again to a private lesson with Andres. The lesson went until 5:20 sunset. Had a couple of imperials while waiting for Randy to return from his trip. Randy had a boat trip to Avellanes. Avellanes was closing out quickly. Dinner at our club. Milko had 12- $5 vouchers to use up (Vouchers were compliments of WRSC because of all the complaints from the excessive construction noise). The $60 covered dinner for 4 and 3 pitchers of imperial. We went for a walk to check out the nightlife. Tonight’s party was at Babylon. Stopped for a drink at a beach that had an outdoor patio surrounded by tall palm trees. The party at Babylon didn’t get hopping until much later, so we went home. Bed at 11pm
Day 3 (sun): high tide at 6am. Randy had a 6am trip to Playa Grande. Bill had a 4:30pm lesson. By the time I got to the club and had breakfast (the Betty), it was 8am and the waves were already dying. The best surf was 6-7am. It was not worth staying up late to do nothing and then losing out on the good early waves. I switched to a shorter 9’2” board. Rob stated something about his earlier van trip to Playa Grande was a “porno star smoking pot”. Lunch at the same lunch counter. Good view of the ocean. The counter guy, Michael, gave Randy a girl’s phone number. A sure thing. He said she cheated on her boyfriend last night and wanted Randy to call her. Last time we ate there. Moved to new rooms at WRSC. Randy’s #13 had a balcony, no safe. I was in room #17 with an ocean view but no balcony. Again I couldn’t open the door (a recurring problem). Turns out it wasn’t the imperials, but Marcela gave me the key to number 18, not 17. Oops. We were the first to use the new rooms. 2pm – 4pm: time to get out of the sun and read. 4:30 lesson with Autumn and Carlos (instructor). Surfed until sunset and then caught 2 more waves. Carlos was giving us hints on when to start paddling and when to pop up. Dinner of seafood soup at Pedro’s. 3000 colones. The clams, muscles, and crabmeat were still in the shells. Fun, tasty, and different. 8:30 pm Cuba Libras. (Rum, coke, and lime). Very good. 9pm-10pm read time. 10pm lights out. Noisy being above the bar, but not too bad. I was wired on the caffeine from the Cuba Libra. No more of those late at night.
Randy traded the 9’ for a 9’6” board.
Day 4 (mon): woke up at 5:30am for my 6am lesson with Autumn and Andres (teacher). The first part of the lesson was on the beach while we waited for the sun to rise above the WRSC building. It was wonderful watching the sunrise. The ocean was empty except for WRSC classes. Switched to an 8’6” board. Once you get up and out there, it felt great. Survived surfing, then threw out my back picking up a bottle of shampoo in the shower. Go figure. Possibly from overarching my back when lying down on the board and paddling (“boobs off the board”). Bothered me for the rest of the week and really hampered my surfing enjoyment. Ended up taking Excedrin, Motrin’s, and muscle relaxants to get me thru the lessons. Even after 3 imperials with Bridget and Chris, my back was still too sore for an afternoon surf. Did not do any extra post-lesson surfing for the rest of the week because of it. Sunset walk in the ocean. Then it got very dark, I got nervous being alone on a dark deserted beach so I switched to taking the road home (barefoot). We were without power for most of the morning and early afternoon throughout the entire town. They said it was a planned outage.
Randy was supposed to surf at Nosara but did not due to the 3-hour (one way) travel. Surfed at Playa Grande instead with the Three Amigos (Randy, Rob, and Bert). Best surf of the trip at Playa Grande. Chest high waves with lefts and rights.
5-7pm WRSC had a party to celebrate our club’s competitors who just competed and did very well in a surf competition. 9-11pm dinner at Etceteras. Rob, Randy, Arlene and I. Tuna and grouper specials/wine bottle. $20/ person. Excellent food and company. Her last night. Arlene’s sister couldn’t make it because she had a date with a surf instructor.
Day 5 (tues): 7am lesson with Johan. Worked on the timing of waves and body position. Limited breakfast choices at our club because the power is out again. They say 8am -2pm. Went next door to the Paris Bakery for a croissant. No pm surf because of a sore back. Dinner at Stella’s. Randy and I split an order of Thai curry coconut chicken and a vegetarian pizza. Awesome Thai, but blah pizza. Most of the pizza went uneaten. Need to order less food. Ordered a bottle of water. It was presented and poured like it was a fine bottle of wine. The waiter presented it, poured both glasses, and stored it in an iced bucket. $20 a head. 9pm read and bedtime.
Day 6 (wed): Awake at 6am. Back really stiff and sore. 8am breakfast of “The Betty” and read until lesson time. 9am lesson with Erika and Eduardo (instructor who is dating Erika). Noon happy hour of imperials followed by 2 hours of reading and napping. Another imperial and walked to the beach and town. No strenuous walking or running in the surf. 5pm more happy hour. Rob’s last day. He also had several noise vouchers to use up so the 3 of us (Rob, Randy, and I) split 3 pitchers. 7pm dinner at Stella’s again. This time Rob joined us. More of the curry Thai chicken. Also the same presentation of the water bottle. So funny. 9pm read. 10pm sleep.
Randy traded the 9’6” for the 9’. Bad move.
Day 7 (thur): Rob left for the airport at 5:15am. Goodbye to one of the three amigos. I got to sleep in. High tide was getting later each day. My lesson was at 8am. Bigger waves. Caught a couple of killer rides, practiced some turns in the white water, couldn’t get the turn in the green waves. Ricardo was my instructor. No Autumn today due to late-night – party girl. Johan kept calling me “Papa”, so I called him “Hijo (pronounced E Ho)” for the son. Then it evolved into “Hijo Tarzan” for Johan and “Hijo Muglee” (name of Tarzan’s chimp) for Ricardo. I also found out I had a previous nickname of “hat boy”. Randy got moved from room #13 to #12. Much nicer room with 2 double beds, a wall-mounted surfboard holder, safe, balcony and an ocean view. Definitely the room to request in future years
Randy did not like the RA WIR 9’ board. Traded back to the 9’6”. Good move.
Day 8 (fri): Bill’s group trip to Avellanes. Took the club’s school bus. What a ride experience. The roads are full of potholes, washed out in many places, very narrow 1-lane bridges. Barely wide enough for our bus to drive over it. He had to cross them at a snail’s pace all the while using his mirrors to keep his tires on the road. Bigger waves. Only caught a couple of them. My back was hurting so I quit early. Lunch and imperials at this middle of nowhere bar. $10. Ricardo was standing on the front bumper while the bus was in motion. Once he had to run ahead to shoo the cattle out of the road. Dinner at Portofino on the Beach. Red snapper with the head and tail still attached. Blah. $15.
Randy took an hour van ride to Playa De Coco. Fellow travelers were Keith (WRSC Photographer) and Sterling Morris (from Corpus Christi). Grabbed a pastry at the bakery there, talked with other surfers going to the same destination, and then boarded a shuttle boat 50 yards away at the beach. An hour boat ride thru islands. Could see the 4 seasons hotel w/ golf course on the cliff bluffs. Has to be very pricey. Went to Ollie’s Point and never got out of the boat. OP has a right-only, with a launch point about 10 yards wide next to rocks. 9 people in the water. Decided to travel 20 minutes to Witch’s Rock. Wow. A half mile of beach breaks (head high) with rights and lefts. Some closeouts, but managed to find a few good runs. Again, 9 people in the water. Stunning view of the rock. Had some great rides. Keith got some photos. I bought all photos for $65.
Graduation party at WRSC. 9pm reading and bed.
Day 9 (sat): Up at usual 6am. No lessons today. Our van leaves at 11am to get us to the airport for our 2:30pm departure. Waves too small to surf, so we walked the beach and town to say our goodbyes. Next time book the earlier flight because if the waves aren’t good, we just waste the day until it is time to go. No beer sold on this election day. I also heard that is the rule applies for an additional 2-4 more days. Van left punctually at 11am. One hour drive to the airport. Short airport lines. It took 45 minutes to clear all exit procedures. $26 exit fee. 1 last imperial at the airport (after passing thru immigration). There is some food after immigrations. The plane left on time. After takeoff, Bill asked if I could see Witch’s Rock (aisle seat). I looked out the window, and dooh!, there was Playa De Coco, the islands, Ollie’s point, and Witch’s Rock. What a view.
All of my pics are here -->>> Costa Rica 2006 Pics
Misc thoughts:
· Bring $100 in $1’s and another $100 in $5’s. Nothing larger is needed or wanted. $1 for daily tips and the $5 to cash at the bank and to leave as tips at the end of the week. Consider $1 coins and $2 bills for novelty items. Spent about $200 in cash.
· Colonies smaller than 100 ($0.20) are huge, heavy and worthless to carry
· WRSC has wireless internet. Bring a laptop next time.
· Large .6L water was 1300 colones. Went through 5 of those and several small bottles.
· Exchange rate at their bank was 515 colones to the dollar. Very fair. Same as ATM.
· Randy’s board rental from Court at Robert August Surf Shop was $100/week (cash). Can exchange boards as often as desired.
· Bring thinner paperback. Easier to fit into a fanny pack with sunglasses, etc.
· WRSC: imperial beer is $2.20, but only $1.25 for happy hour, which goes from noon to 9pm. That covers all our drinking hours.
· Wore quick-dry shirts and sunscreen (>SPF 50) during the daytime, white cotton T-shirts and bug spray at night. Needed more than 5 cotton shirts. Needed lighter-colored quick-dry shirts. Brought a long sleeve quick-dry shirt, which I never wore.
· Bring zinc oxide, hydrocortisone, NuSkin, base wax, tunnel tube fin, and Leatherman on next trip.
· Neither Bill nor Randy took any photos.
· Randy considered the surf tour to Marbella (3 hours 1 way) too far.
· Playa Grande was his favorite. Witch’s Rock was great; Ollie’s point was a waste of time.
Fellow surfers:
· Bert and Carla from Oregon. He is used to surfing in cold Oregon waters. One of Randy’s 3 Amigos. She does not surf.
· Bert’s brother- another non-surfer. What do you do in Tamarindo if not a surfer?
· Rob: from Montreal, another of the 3 Amigos
· Henri and Diana: had the penthouse suite
· Milko Todorov: from Bulgaria, now living in NYC
· David: Miami, the whiner, was in San Jose for work and flew Sansa here for the weekend
· Autumn: lifeguard, afraid of the waves and the board hurting her, party girl
· Andrea: a friend of Autumn, another party girl
· Bridget and Chris: from Switzerland, flew into San Jose, going to travel throughout CR seeing the national forests, volcanoes, rainforests for 2 week
· Erika: perfectly formed boobs. Are they real? Ask Eduardo. On the third trip to Tamarindo from Miami. Moving there.
· Arlene: pediatrician, her sister was hitting on a surf instructor.
· Edward. Florida. His son, Bryan, and Bryan’s wife Jill joined later. Edward referred to non-surfing Jill as an accessory”.
· Bill & Emily. Houston. Third trip to Tamarindo. Randy had lessons with Emily last year.
Staff:
· Joe, Holly, and Otis. Owners.
· Suzanne. Holly’s mom, just moved to Costa Rica.
· Carlos: been there 5 years, nicknamed me Papa, I called him”Hijo Tarzan (my son Tarzan)
· Ricardo: also called me papa so I called him Hijo muglee (my son the chimp) (see Tarzan)
· Andre: young kid, wears his ball cap backward, been there 2 months
· Edgar: surf tour person. Dating Marcela.
· Eduardo: dating Erika
· Marcela: front desk
· Erick: food server
· Freedom: Asian food server
· Collin: computer Webmaster with big ideas.
· Keith: WRSC Photographer.
· Leo: driver for most surf trips and to/from the airport. Excellent driver.
Quote of the trip
Ricardo, while walking back to the shuttle after surfing Playa Grande takes a cell phone call. He answers, “Hola, I’m working.”
$$
Flight- delta $25 used frequent flier miles, saved ??
Room $722 each after 10% discount
ROC airport parking $55
Canceled ATL hotel $25 penalty
Misc cash in CR $200 rough guess
Surf photographs $


