Thursday, October 15, 2026

On to Birmingham: A Ryanair Adventure and a Concert Worth the Trip

Tuesday, October 13 – My First Ryanair Flight

Tuesday was travel day, and I was heading to Birmingham, England, for two nights before returning home.

This would be my first experience flying with Ryanair, the European budget airline known for its inexpensive fares and strict baggage rules. Ryanair has a reputation for charging passengers extra for oversized or overweight luggage, so I wanted to avoid any unpleasant surprises.

I had purchased a smaller carry-on backpack specifically for my computer and other items I wanted to keep with me during the flight. Before approaching the check-in counter, I also discovered a public weighing station at the airport. That was a useful find because it allowed me to check my luggage weight ahead of time instead of worrying about it while standing in line.

Once I was satisfied with the weights, I headed over to the Ryanair counter. There seemed to be a small army of young employees wearing branded Ryanair jackets, helping direct passengers through the check-in process.

My luggage was weighed, and I was given the necessary paperwork to attach to it. So far, so good.

Then came the boarding-pass problem.

I had tried unsuccessfully to obtain my boarding pass online before arriving at the airport. Ryanair strongly encourages passengers to use its app, and the process had apparently changed from the days when printing a boarding pass at home was straightforward. I couldn’t get the pass to generate in the app, either.

I understood that Ryanair could charge a substantial fee for issuing a boarding pass at the airport, which was exactly the kind of extra expense I wanted to avoid. Fortunately, I had taken a screenshot showing a message that the problem could be resolved at the airport gate.

I explained the situation to the counter employee, who was able to fix it without charging me anything. One potential Ryanair headache avoided!

After clearing security, I made my way to the gate and waited for boarding to begin. That was when the baggage drama really became apparent.

As passengers slowly moved toward the aircraft, it seemed that every third person was being pulled aside because their luggage was too large or required an additional payment.

One woman ahead of me was determined not to pay the extra charge. She began putting on more and more of her clothing, starting with shorts and adding two pairs of pants, along with a sweater and jacket. The idea, apparently, was to reduce the amount of clothing she was carrying in her bag by wearing it instead.

I was relieved when I made it through without any baggage issues or additional charges.

The flight itself was nearly full, and I discovered another Ryanair feature: the seats do not recline. Somehow, I had been assigned an exit-row seat without being asked. That meant I couldn’t put my backpack under the seat in front of me, so it had to go into the overhead compartment. It wasn’t a major inconvenience, but it was one more reminder that flying with Ryanair comes with its own set of rules.

Would I call it a good experience? Not particularly. But the fare was inexpensive, and it was the only direct flight available to Birmingham. Sometimes, convenience and price win out over comfort.

Arriving in Birmingham

I arrived in Birmingham and quickly discovered that navigating the airport and its transportation connections would be an adventure of its own.

It was my first time at Birmingham Airport, and things weren’t immediately obvious. Fortunately, the airport has a tram system that takes passengers away from the terminal to a transportation hub roughly a third of a mile away. From there, travelers can connect with rental-car shuttles and other transportation options.

I had some time before I needed to settle into my hotel, so I decided to take public transportation toward downtown and continue from there toward my hotel, which was a little south of the city center.

An employee at an information booth helped me purchase a ticket. Getting to my destination would require two trains.

The first leg was easy enough, taking me to the main downtown station. Then things became confusing.

I couldn’t figure out where the second train departed from, so I asked two different information booths for directions. Unfortunately, I received two different answers!

At that point, my patience was wearing thin. I approached another transportation employee and explained that I was ready to abandon the whole exercise and take an Uber. I simply wanted to know where I could exit the transportation hub to get a ride.

The employee sensed my frustration and encouraged me to give public transportation one more try.

All right, one more try it was!

The second train eventually got me to a station about a mile and a half from my hotel. Rather than attempt another transportation connection, I ordered an Uber and completed the journey that way.

Sometimes, the simplest solution is to stop trying to make the original plan work!

Two Nights in an Irish Neighborhood

My hotel, Pairc House Hotel,  was located in what appeared to be an Irish neighborhood of Birmingham. The area had a lively pub scene.

Nearby, I noticed soccer pitches that were also used for rugby, along with a workout area specializing in boxing. There was even a boxing ring set up outside.

It was an interesting neighborhood, and I was looking forward to exploring it.

That first evening, I had dinner at the Irish pub in the hotel and called it a night.

The following morning, I got out for a walk to see more of the surrounding area. I found a place to have brunch, the Trine Beans Cafe, and the women working in the back all came out to talk with me. They were curious about why I was visiting their neighborhood.

It was a friendly encounter and a nice reminder that sometimes the best travel experiences come from simple, unexpected conversations with local people.

After brunch, I walked back toward the hotel and stopped to watch a little soccer practice. It was a relaxed way to spend part of the day before the main event that had brought me to Birmingham.

The Hare & Hounds and an Unexpected Meeting

That evening, I walked to the Hare & Hounds, the music venue where I planned to see MT Jones perform.

Hare & Hounds pub


I stopped at the pub for a bite to eat and then wandered around the area. At one point, I noticed a man standing near an entranceway who seemed to be waving at me.

Naturally, I walked over to see what was going on.

As it turned out, he wasn’t waving at me at all. He was waving to the band’s bus behind me!

But the misunderstanding led to an unexpected opportunity. The main performer, MT Jones, stepped off the bus and came over to speak with the man. I was standing right there, so I joined the conversation briefly.

I introduced myself and told MT Jones that I was looking forward to his concert that evening.

Then I stepped aside to let them get on with their preparations.

It wasn’t until afterward that I regretted not asking for a selfie. How often do you get to meet the performer before a concert simply because you mistakenly think someone is waving at you?

Oh well. Another missed photo opportunity to add to the collection!

Front Row for MT Jones

After wandering around a little longer, I joined a small group of people beginning to line up outside the venue.

I learned that the Hare & Hounds actually has two performance spaces: a smaller room that holds about 200 people and a larger venue for bigger crowds. MT Jones was playing in the smaller room.

Once inside, I claimed my usual spot near the front of the stage.

One of the things I enjoy about going to concerts is talking with the people around me while waiting for the show to begin. I usually ask whether anyone has seen the performer before. On this occasion, nobody had.

That made the evening even more interesting. We were all there to discover what MT Jones and his band would deliver.

When they took the stage, they put on a great show. The performance was everything I had hoped for, and the relatively small venue made it feel intimate and personal.

MT Jones.  Great Concert!


Setlist


It was one of those concerts that reminds you why traveling for live music can be so rewarding. You discover performers in places you might never otherwise visit, and sometimes the experience turns out to be the highlight of an entire trip.

In this case, the concert justified staying in Europe for an additional two weeks and making the journey to Birmingham.

After the show, I walked back to the hotel, happy that I had made the effort to be there.

Wednesday, October 14 – Heading Home

The following morning, it was time to head home.

I got up early enough to catch a FlixBus shuttle from Birmingham to Heathrow Airport. With my flight scheduled to depart at 2:30 p.m., I wanted to leave plenty of time for the journey and the usual airport formalities.

After several weeks of traveling through Europe, changing cities, figuring out unfamiliar transportation systems, and enjoying everything from historic neighborhoods to live music, my European adventure was coming to an end.

My flight departed as planned, and I would be sleeping in my own bed that evening.

 

Tuesday, October 13, 2026

Back to Kraków

Friday, October 9

I boarded a FlixBus in Katowice for the little over an hour’s journey to Kraków, one of my favorite cities in Europe. This would be my second visit to Kraków this year, and probably my fourth visit overall. By now, I know the city pretty well, including how to get around and which places I enjoy visiting. I was looking forward to spending four nights there.

I checked into Apartmenty Bracka 6, room 27. It wasn’t my usual room, but I quickly decided I liked it even better. My regular apartment has a street view, while room 27 overlooks an interior courtyard. Although the room was a little smaller, the reduced street noise more than made up for the difference.

After settling in and splashing some water on my face, I headed out for a late lunch at my usual spot, a traditional Polish bar mleczny, or milk bar. Apparently, I wasn’t the only one who had decided Kraków was a great place to visit. The line was out the door! Rather than wait, I gave up and found somewhere else to eat.

Milk Bar Lunch: 2 slaws and Polish Sausage & Potato Soup


Familiar Sights and a Quieter Pace

Since I had visited Kraków several times before, this trip wasn’t about discovering a lot of new places. Instead, I revisited many of my favorite spots.

I tried to visit the local Jagiellonian University, one of the oldest universities in Europe, but special events were taking place. Security was tighter than usual, and some areas had been roped off, so I wasn’t able to explore as much as I had hoped.

I also checked the local music scene, looking at the jazz clubs and symphony concerts held in churches. Unfortunately, nothing caught my attention enough to justify the time and money.

The weather had turned cooler, too, making those early-morning walks less appealing. Losing my fleece earlier in the week certainly hadn’t helped!

Still, I managed to cover most of my regular Kraków favorites, including the Market Hall, Avenue of Stars, PlacNowy, Schindler’s List Passage, Remah Cemetery, Bania Luca, Hevre, and the famous Dragon Statue.

View to the North, from the Castle


View to the South, from the Castle

There’s something comforting about returning to a city you know well. You don’t feel compelled to check off every tourist attraction, and you can simply enjoy being there. Kraków remains one of those places I’m always happy to revisit.

Friday, October 9, 2026

Leaving the Czech Republic for Poland: A Return to Katowice

Wednesday, October 7

After my stay in the Czech Republic, it was time to cross the border into Poland and revisit a city I had first explored in 2024: Katowice.

A Comfortable Ride with FlixBus

I boarded a FlixBus shuttle in Brno for the journey to Katowice, Poland. This was a longer bus ride, taking just over three hours. Before boarding, the driver asked me to have my passport ready. I assumed this was a precaution in case officials boarded the bus to check passengers' identification, although that never happened.

As on my previous bus trip, I managed to get a seat in the first row on the upper deck. Sitting up front provides some great views along the way, making the journey part of the travel experience rather than simply a way to get from one city to another.

I've mentioned this in earlier blog posts, but FlixBus is a convenient and inexpensive way to travel between European cities. You can sit back, enjoy the scenery, and let someone else do the driving. Besides, once you arrive in most European cities, having a car is more of a nuisance than a convenience. Public transportation and walking are usually much better ways to explore.

Checking In at My Katowice Apartment

Having visited Katowice in 2024, I was familiar with the bus depot and the surrounding area. From there, I walked to my accommodation, Apartamenty Jana.

This lodging was quite different from the hotel where I had stayed on my previous visit. The check-in arrangement was a little quirky, requiring separate access codes for the front entrance, the floor, and my individual room. Add to that the dimly lit hallways, where the lights came on only when triggered by motion sensors, and the place had a somewhat eerie atmosphere!

My room was definitely on the small side, although it did have a little kitchenette. In the second-floor common area, there was also a washer and dryer, which is always a useful amenity when traveling for an extended period.

The accommodations were sparse, to say the least, but then I checked the price. At roughly $45 a night, it was hard to complain. Sometimes, a basic room in a convenient location is all you need, especially when most of your time will be spent out exploring the city.

An Afternoon Exploring Katowice

With only two nights in Katowice, I didn't have time to waste. My first priority after settling in was finding a place to enjoy a beer and recover from the three-hour-plus bus ride.

I found a spot where I could sit back, enjoy a cold beer, and watch the activity in the main square. It was a pleasant way to ease into the city before setting off on foot to explore.

Beer in the main square.


Since this was my second visit, I recognized several sights from my 2024 trip. However, wandering around without a strict itinerary also led me to discover a few new places.

One of the livelier areas I visited was Mariacka Street, Katowice's well-known nightlife destination. The street was lined with outdoor dining areas, restaurants, and cocktail bars. It had a very different feel from the quieter parts of the city, and it was easy to imagine how lively the area becomes in the evening.

I also came across several charming little statuettes scattered around town. I didn't remember seeing these on my previous visit, and their playful character added a bit of whimsy to my walk.






Discovering Spodek, Katowice's Flying Saucer

The following day, I headed out on another walking adventure, making my way toward the University of Silesia before continuing to one of Katowice's most recognizable landmarks: Spodek.

Spodek, whose name means "saucer" in Polish, is a distinctive arena with a futuristic, flying-saucer-shaped design. It certainly stands out from the surrounding buildings!

The arena hosts a variety of major events, including sporting competitions, concerts, and large conferences. Even without an event taking place, the unusual architecture makes it an interesting destination to visit.

After taking in the arena, I continued through a quiet park situated between Spodek and the university. It was a nice contrast to the busy streets and nightlife areas I had explored the day before. A little greenery and a peaceful walk are always welcome when spending several days exploring cities on foot.

Onward to Kraków!

My short return visit to Katowice was coming to an end. Between revisiting familiar places, discovering a few new details, and enjoying some time wandering the streets, I had made the most of my two nights in town.

Katowice may not always receive as much attention from travelers as some of Poland's more famous destinations, but I enjoyed having another opportunity to explore it.

Now it was time to pack up, leave Katowice behind, and head to my next destination: Kraków, Poland!

 

Wednesday, October 7, 2026

From Prague to Brno: Czech Cities, Crowds, and a Lost Fleece

Friday, October 2 – Monday, October 5

Arriving in Prague: Free Public Transportation!

I had an early flight from Amsterdam’s Schiphol Airport to Prague, arriving at the Prague airport around 9:00 a.m. My hotel, Residence Bene, couldn’t accommodate an early check-in, but they were happy to store my luggage while I went out to explore the city.

One of the first pleasant surprises was how easy—and FREE—it was to get from the airport into Prague’s city center using public transportation. Prague offers free public transportation to qualifying senior citizens (known as pensioners) over the age of 65. No ticket is needed; you simply need to be able to prove your age if a transit inspector asks.

The tram connections were easy to find, and getting into town was a breeze. I couldn’t help thinking, Why can’t America offer something like this? It seems like a wonderful benefit for older travelers and residents alike.

Finding my hotel was easy enough, although I encountered one of those little European quirks that always seems to catch me off guard. I pressed the doorbell at the entrance, heard the lock click, and tried to pull the door open. Nothing happened. I tried again, and then again. Finally, someone from the front desk came to the door and opened it by pushing it inward.

Of course! It was a push door, not a pull door. Why do I keep falling for that one?

I left my luggage at the hotel and headed out to explore Prague and find something to eat.

Alfredo Caffe refreshment.  An HG recommendation.


Prague: Beautiful, but Still Too Many Tourists

My previous visit to Prague was in 2019, and I remember not being particularly impressed. The city was simply overwhelmed with tourists. After spending three nights here on this trip, I found myself reaching much the same conclusion.

Prague certainly has its attractions, but the crowds can make enjoying them a challenge.

Take the famous Astronomical Clock in the Old Town Square, for example. If you want to see its hourly show, you quickly discover that the area becomes a human traffic jam. Starting about 15 minutes before the hour, people begin gathering in front of the clock, all craning their necks upward in anticipation. By the time the show begins, the square is packed with people staring at the same spot.

Good Luck Getting Thru This Crowd...


I learned quickly that getting around the clock during that period was best avoided!

Before arriving, I had bookmarked several places to visit based on recommendations from the Honest Guide YouTube channel. I revisited a few familiar sights from 2019, including the Franz Kafka statue, the amusing Peeing Figures sculpture, and the iconic Charles Bridge.

The Peeing Statue, such a guy thing.


Prague has plenty of memorable sights, but sometimes the challenge is finding enough room to actually enjoy them.

One thing I noticed this time was the number of expensive sports cars being driven around town. There were some impressive machines on the streets, but I had to wonder what the point was. Prague’s narrow, crowded streets offer very little opportunity to get out of first gear, let alone enjoy the performance of a high-powered sports car.

My conclusion? These cars are probably less about driving pleasure and more about showing off wealth and status. Still, they certainly added a little automotive theater to the streets!

Searching for a Favorite Czech Dinner

My first evening was devoted to finding a restaurant that Bill and I had discovered during our 2019 visit.

I remembered a wonderful place in a large, open basement that served authentic Czech food. Our usual order was schnitzel, sauerkraut, and a Pilsner Urquell beer. It was tasty, satisfying, and reasonably priced—a combination that is always welcome when traveling.

I thought I had found the place on my first attempt, but the meal was disappointing. Something wasn’t quite right.

So I returned to my travel blog from 2019 and looked up the restaurant’s name. That solved the mystery: the restaurant no longer had the large basement dining area I remembered, but there was another location with the same name just down the street from my hotel.

I headed there, hoping to recapture the experience. Perhaps it was the same restaurant that had moved, but the new location was much smaller, and the food didn't quite live up to my memories.

Sometimes, a restaurant is best left as a fond travel memory!

And that, more or less, wraps up my latest Prague experience. Three nights gave me time to revisit a few sights, explore some new ones, and confirm that the crowds still aren't my favorite part of the city.

It was time to move on.

Onward to Brno—and Goodbye to My Fleece!

On Monday, October 5, I checked out of Residence Bene and headed to the bus station for my next adventure: a little over two hours on a FlixBus to Brno, the second-largest city in the Czech Republic.

My Flixbus seat view.

I had reserved a seat in the front row of the double-decker bus, which gave me a great view of the Czech countryside as we traveled. The ride itself was easy and comfortable.

Unfortunately, the trip came with a small casualty.

I had placed my Patagonia fleece in the overhead compartment and completely forgot about it when I got off the bus. I remembered it just as the bus was pulling away from the Brno bus station.

Too late!

I watched the bus depart, knowing that my fleece was heading off on its own adventure without me. I suppose that's one way to lighten your luggage, although not the way I would have chosen.

Goodbye, Patagonia fleece. You served me well!

Discovering Brno: A Different Side of the Czech Republic

Brno isn't nearly as well-known as Prague, but as the Czech Republic's second-largest city, it has plenty to offer. I was looking forward to seeing a different side of the country, away from Prague's crowds of international visitors.

After arriving at the bus depot, I walked to my Airbnb, the Zorya Sunrise Apartment. Fortunately, the host had provided excellent entry instructions, and I was able to find my way inside without any trouble.

There was also a welcome bonus: the apartment had a washing machine!

For anyone planning an extended trip through Europe, a washing machine is a real luxury. It means you can pack a little lighter and avoid spending time and money hunting down laundromats. It's one of those small conveniences that can make a big difference when you're traveling for weeks at a time.

Like many European cities, Brno is very walkable, making it easy to explore on foot. As I wandered around, I found a fascinating mix of historic buildings and more modern architecture.

The Honest Guide YouTube channel had mentioned that Brno is home to several universities and has developed into an important center for technology and higher education. 

A Peaceful Park and a Farmers Market

One of my walks took me to MoravianSquare Park, where I discovered a distinctive “pond” surrounded by benches. It was a peaceful spot, and a welcome change of pace after the crowds in Prague. People-watching is one of the pleasures of traveling that doesn't cost a thing, and sometimes those quiet moments turn out to be just as memorable as the major attractions.

I also discovered Plaza de la Libertad, one of several town squares.  It's another great people-watching place.  

Beer helps with people-watching.


Another discovery was a farmers market. I always enjoy finding these local markets when traveling because they offer a glimpse into everyday life beyond the usual tourist sights. They're also a great excuse to slow down, browse the stalls, and see what local vendors have to offer.

Brno was already giving me a different impression of the Czech Republic: less tourist congestion, a more relaxed atmosphere, and plenty of interesting places to discover simply by walking around.

 

Friday, October 2, 2026

One More Day in Amsterdam and Another Night with Focus

Wednesday, September 30 

With our Amsterdam stay coming to an end, Bill boarded a local bus at 3pm to Amsterdam Central Station and then caught the airport express shuttle for his departure. I decided to stay one more night at Hotel Atlanta and enjoy a few additional hours exploring Amsterdam before moving on to my next destination. 

When I extended my stay, I initially booked a cheaper room at Hotel Atlanta and offered to pack up my belongings and move to it. The hotel wisely decided to let me remain in my existing room. That saved them the work of cleaning another room and saved me the trouble of packing, moving, and unpacking everything for just one night. A win-win! 

The following morning, I packed up after breakfast and checked out. That's when I received an unexpected surprise: additional charges for breakfast during our stay. Note to self: Always confirm whether breakfast is included in the room rate or will be charged separately. It's a small detail worth checking before booking. 

I left my luggage at Hotel Atlanta and spent a few more hours walking around Amsterdam. I took advantage of the extra time to explore some of the city's waterways and bridges. Amsterdam is a wonderful walking city, and the numerous canal crossings make it easy to discover something new simply by wandering around. 

Hotel Atlanta had a good location, but the hotel itself left something to be desired. The bathroom design was particularly puzzling. There was a glass half-shelf positioned over the sink, and the bathtub/shower were elevated above the rest of the bathroom floor. The arrangement seemed unnecessarily awkward and potentially dangerous. I could easily imagine someone slipping while getting in or out of the shower and ending up with a trip to the doctor. Good location, questionable design! 

Watch Your Step!!



The Infamous Glass Half-Shelf



After my walk, I retrieved my luggage and caught the same transit path then as Bill had done the previous afternoon. I wasn't catching a flight, however. I was killing time and making my way toward my next hotel, hoping to arrive around the time they would allow me to check in. 

My destination was the OXO Hotel de President Airport in Hoofddorp, a town near Schiphol Airport. I had selected it for two practical reasons: its proximity to the airport and its location relative to the upcoming Focus concert at the Cpunt Theater. 

The hotel was about a 35- to 40-minute walk from the theater. Before making the reservation, I had checked the route on Google Street View. It appeared to pass through a mixture of office parks and residential areas, which seemed perfectly reasonable. I had also planned ahead for my departure the following morning. Because my flight was early, I wouldn't be able to rely on the hotel shuttle, which didn't start operating until 6:00 a.m. Fortunately, a local bus also served the airport. 

With the logistics figured out, I settled into the hotel first for a nap and headed out for my walk to the theater. I was pleased to find that the route passed through perfectly ordinary surroundings, with no neighborhoods that felt threatening or run-down. 

Another Evening with Focus 

The Cpunt Theater complex was quite impressive. The large building appeared to house several different spaces and activities, including areas for children's play, arts and crafts, and, of course, the performance venue where Focus would be playing. 

Finding the actual theater entrance was a little confusing. The directions I received seemed to amount to, “Go to the bar and restaurant, and you'll find it from there.” So that's what I did. 

When I arrived at the bar and restaurant, I immediately recognized what appeared to be the gathering place for the concert crowd. There were plenty of people with gray or no hair, and a fair number of us were clearly on the more mature side of life. I had found my people! 

The theater doors opened, and everyone began filtering inside. The venue looked as though it could accommodate perhaps 400 people. One feature I particularly appreciated was the sloping floor, which provided a better view toward the stage from farther back in the room, where the bar was located. 

At five minutes past the hour, Focus took the stage. And once again, they played their hearts out. 

It was another excellent performance from a band that continues to deliver the goods. After following the logistics of getting there, checking out the venue, and navigating my way through the building, it was wonderful to settle in and simply enjoy the music. The effort of getting to the concert was well rewarded.

Pierre van der Linden (Drums) and Thijs van Leer (Organ, Flute)


When the performance ended, I headed back to the hotel on foot. It was another 40-minute walk, but I had already checked out the route and knew what to expect. I arrived back at the hotel, enjoyed a quiet evening, and turned in for the night. 

An Early-Morning Departure 

The next morning, I was up early and left the hotel before daybreak to catch the local bus to the airport.

I hadn't anticipated just how crowded the bus would be when it arrived. It seemed that quite a few of the passengers were heading to work at Schiphol. I based that impression on the number of people traveling without luggage, compared with those of us who appeared to be airport-bound travelers.

It was a reminder that an airport bus isn't necessarily filled with people catching flights. For many passengers, it's simply part of the daily commute.

With another Focus concert behind me and my time in Amsterdam complete, I was on my way to the next stage of the journey. The extra day had provided a little more time to enjoy the city, discover a few more canals, and prepare for another evening of live music.

And, as always when traveling, there were a few lessons learned along the way: check whether breakfast is included, plan transportation before an early flight, and never underestimate the value of a good walking route. 

Most importantly, another great performance from Focus made the entire detour worthwhile.

Sunday, September 6, 2026

The Fjord by Boat

 Sunday, September 6

I was awake again during the night, spending some time on the computer after 1 a.m. Bill also had trouble sleeping and got up for a while. Eventually, I managed to get back to sleep and woke at 5:56 a.m., just ahead of my 6 a.m. alarm.

We had plenty of time before our 9:30 a.m. boat departure. We repacked, tidied up, and headed into town for our usual salmon-and-cheese sandwich to share before boarding.

Bill suggested we get in line early. We followed his advice, boarded the catamaran, stowed our luggage, and made our way to the upper deck.

We had dressed as warmly as we could, but once the boat got underway, the wind chill was substantial. We alternated between standing outside to enjoy the views and going inside to thaw out.



The fjord scenery was extraordinary: towering cliffs, countless waterfalls, and stretches of water framed by steep mountainsides. Whenever the views became especially impressive, the indoor cabin emptied as everyone rushed outside to take photographs.

Incredible views.


One surprise was the number of villages tucked into the landscape. Even in this dramatic terrain, people had found places to live and build communities.

When we arrived at our destination, Gudvangen, we hurried toward the bus. We assumed everyone leaving the boat would be competing for seats, but that turned out not to be the case. Only about ten people seemed to be waiting for the bus.

I thought the bus departed at noon, so I figured I had time to use the restroom next to the bus. I told the driver I was stepping away and started walking. He said something in Norwegian and pointed toward the facilities.

I took care of business and returned just in time to see the bus pulling away.

There was Bill, standing in the bus front window, waving at me.

I could hardly believe it. The driver knew I was going to the restroom, yet the bus was already departing. Fortunately, Bill was on board, and I wasn't about to spend the afternoon searching for another bus to Voss.

Once the bus began climbing uphill, I finally understood where all that waterfall water came from. Up above, there were lakes and reservoirs of natural water feeding the cascades below. Mystery solved.

We arrived in Voss and passed our hotel, the Fleischer's Hotel, on the way into town, making it easy to backtrack and drop off our luggage. Then we went looking for lunch and a beer.

Fleischer's Hotel


This is where we encountered a recurring theme: It's Sunday.

We found a pharmacy. Closed.

We found an Irish pub. Closed.

Across the street, however, was a simple diner. Open! What a revelation. Bill and I each had a beer and split a sausage lunch.

Afterward, we wandered around town. One thing we noticed was how many people wore technical outdoor clothing and carried walking poles, even when navigating ordinary sidewalks. There were plenty of shops selling high-tech trousers and outdoor gear. Norway takes its outdoor lifestyle seriously.

Our hotel room felt like a penthouse suite compared with our cramped accommodation in Flåm. There was actually room to move around.

Later, we walked along the water. Voss was lovely, with glassy conditions on the lake and beautiful homes climbing the surrounding hills. There were no boats out on the water, perhaps because the water temperature was only about 51°F.

We eventually returned to the one place we had found open earlier. Bill asked a passing employee whether we should sit down and wait for service or order inside.

The answer was essentially: “The seats are here. The beers are in there. Figure it out.”

So we did.

We continued walking around town and stopped in a grocery store, where we finally located the beer coolers. Unfortunately, the cooler handles were secured with zip ties.

It's Sunday.

Dinner became a takeaway pizza and a couple of beers from one of the few establishments still operating. We were learning that in Norway, Sunday planning is not optional.

More Fjord and Voss pics here.