Friday, October 2 – Monday, October 5
Arriving
in Prague: Free Public Transportation!
I had an early flight from
Amsterdam’s Schiphol Airport to Prague, arriving at the Prague airport around
9:00 a.m. My hotel, Residence Bene, couldn’t accommodate an early check-in, but
they were happy to store my luggage while I went out to explore the city.
One of the first pleasant surprises
was how easy—and FREE—it was to get from the airport into Prague’s city center
using public transportation. Prague offers free public transportation to
qualifying senior citizens (known as pensioners) over the age of 65. No ticket
is needed; you simply need to be able to prove your age if a transit inspector
asks.
The tram connections were easy to
find, and getting into town was a breeze. I couldn’t help thinking, Why
can’t America offer something like this? It seems like a wonderful benefit
for older travelers and residents alike.
Finding my hotel was easy enough,
although I encountered one of those little European quirks that always seems to
catch me off guard. I pressed the doorbell at the entrance, heard the lock
click, and tried to pull the door open. Nothing happened. I tried again, and
then again. Finally, someone from the front desk came to the door and opened it
by pushing it inward.
Of course! It was a push door, not a
pull door. Why do I keep falling for that one?
I left my luggage at the hotel and
headed out to explore Prague and find something to eat.
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| Alfredo Caffe refreshment. An HG recommendation. |
Prague:
Beautiful, but Still Too Many Tourists
My previous visit to Prague was in
2019, and I remember not being particularly impressed. The city was simply
overwhelmed with tourists. After spending three nights here on this trip, I
found myself reaching much the same conclusion.
Prague certainly has its
attractions, but the crowds can make enjoying them a challenge.
Take the famous Astronomical Clock
in the Old Town Square, for example. If you want to see its hourly show, you
quickly discover that the area becomes a human traffic jam. Starting about 15
minutes before the hour, people begin gathering in front of the clock, all
craning their necks upward in anticipation. By the time the show begins, the
square is packed with people staring at the same spot.
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| Good Luck Getting Thru This Crowd... |
I learned quickly that getting
around the clock during that period was best avoided!
Before arriving, I had bookmarked
several places to visit based on recommendations from the Honest Guide
YouTube channel. I revisited a few familiar sights from 2019, including the Franz
Kafka statue, the amusing Peeing Figures sculpture, and the iconic Charles
Bridge.
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| The Peeing Statue, such a guy thing. |
Prague has plenty of memorable
sights, but sometimes the challenge is finding enough room to actually enjoy
them.
One thing I noticed this time was
the number of expensive sports cars being driven around town. There were some
impressive machines on the streets, but I had to wonder what the point was.
Prague’s narrow, crowded streets offer very little opportunity to get out of
first gear, let alone enjoy the performance of a high-powered sports car.
My conclusion? These cars are
probably less about driving pleasure and more about showing off wealth and
status. Still, they certainly added a little automotive theater to the streets!
Searching
for a Favorite Czech Dinner
My first evening was devoted to
finding a restaurant that Bill and I had discovered during our 2019 visit.
I remembered a wonderful place in a
large, open basement that served authentic Czech food. Our usual order was
schnitzel, sauerkraut, and a Pilsner Urquell beer. It was tasty, satisfying,
and reasonably priced—a combination that is always welcome when traveling.
I thought I had found the place on
my first attempt, but the meal was disappointing. Something wasn’t quite right.
So I returned to my travel blog from
2019 and looked up the restaurant’s name. That solved the mystery: the
restaurant no longer had the large basement dining area I remembered, but there
was another location with the same name just down the street from my hotel.
I headed there, hoping to recapture
the experience. Perhaps it was the same restaurant that had moved, but the new
location was much smaller, and the food didn't quite live up to my memories.
Sometimes, a restaurant is best left
as a fond travel memory!
And that, more or less, wraps up my
latest Prague experience. Three nights gave me time to revisit a few sights,
explore some new ones, and confirm that the crowds still aren't my favorite
part of the city.
It was time to move on.
Onward
to Brno—and Goodbye to My Fleece!
On Monday, October 5, I checked out
of Residence Bene and headed to the bus station for my next adventure: a little
over two hours on a FlixBus to Brno, the second-largest city in the Czech
Republic.
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| My Flixbus seat view. |
I had reserved a seat in the front
row of the double-decker bus, which gave me a great view of the Czech
countryside as we traveled. The ride itself was easy and comfortable.
Unfortunately, the trip came with a
small casualty.
I had placed my Patagonia fleece in
the overhead compartment and completely forgot about it when I got off the bus.
I remembered it just as the bus was pulling away from the Brno bus station.
Too late!
I watched the bus depart, knowing
that my fleece was heading off on its own adventure without me. I suppose
that's one way to lighten your luggage, although not the way I would have
chosen.
Goodbye, Patagonia fleece. You
served me well!
Discovering
Brno: A Different Side of the Czech Republic
Brno isn't nearly as well-known as
Prague, but as the Czech Republic's second-largest city, it has plenty to
offer. I was looking forward to seeing a different side of the country, away
from Prague's crowds of international visitors.
After arriving at the bus depot, I
walked to my Airbnb, the Zorya Sunrise Apartment. Fortunately, the host had
provided excellent entry instructions, and I was able to find my way inside
without any trouble.
There was also a welcome bonus: the
apartment had a washing machine!
For anyone planning an extended trip
through Europe, a washing machine is a real luxury. It means you can pack a
little lighter and avoid spending time and money hunting down laundromats. It's
one of those small conveniences that can make a big difference when you're
traveling for weeks at a time.
Like many European cities, Brno is
very walkable, making it easy to explore on foot. As I wandered around, I found
a fascinating mix of historic buildings and more modern architecture.
The Honest Guide YouTube
channel had mentioned that Brno is home to several universities and has
developed into an important center for technology and higher education.
A
Peaceful Park and a Farmers Market
One of my walks took me to MoravianSquare Park, where I discovered a distinctive “pond” surrounded by benches. It was a peaceful spot, and a welcome change of pace after the crowds in Prague. People-watching is one of the pleasures of traveling that doesn't cost a thing, and sometimes those quiet moments turn out to be just as memorable as the major attractions.
I also discovered Plaza de la Libertad, one of several town squares. It's another great people-watching place.
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| Beer helps with people-watching. |
Another discovery was a farmers
market. I always enjoy finding these local markets when traveling because they
offer a glimpse into everyday life beyond the usual tourist sights. They're
also a great excuse to slow down, browse the stalls, and see what local vendors
have to offer.
Brno was already giving me a
different impression of the Czech Republic: less tourist congestion, a more
relaxed atmosphere, and plenty of interesting places to discover simply by
walking around.
