Kraków Revisited: Coffee, Laundry, Dragons, and the Joy of Wandering

Sometimes travel days simply refuse to cooperate.

My journey to Kraków began at JFK, where I arrived early, hoping to switch to an earlier flight. With only a 1-hour-10-minute connection in Amsterdam, I was already uneasy about making my onward flight. As it turns out, changing international flights isn't quite that simple. After some waiting around the terminal, my flight finally departed about thirty minutes late, effectively destroying any chance of making the connection.

KLM had already rebooked me onto a later flight, turning a tight connection into a four-hour layover at Amsterdam Schiphol Airport. Fortunately, I found an excellent coffee shop that helped revive me after the overnight flight. The airline did its part too, serving two meals on the transatlantic leg and a customary cheese sandwich on the hop to Poland. It seemed appropriate that Amsterdam would greet travelers with cheese.

Getting from Kraków Airport into the city was every bit as easy as the YouTube videos promised. Large arrows on the floor practically escorted passengers to the train station. Purchasing a ticket was simple once I found a machine offering English. The only challenge was figuring out which train to board among several that looked nearly identical.

Back in Familiar Territory

Arriving in Kraków felt like coming home.

Room 24, my polish home.

I was staying once again at Bracka 6, a place I've grown fond of over previous visits. Finding it should have been easy, but my navigation skills took a temporary vacation after the long journey. Once I spotted the familiar church steeple, however, I immediately knew where I was.

After checking in and reacquainting myself with the building's entry system—which seemed to have changed since my last stay—I unpacked, showered, and headed out in search of food before jet lag claimed victory.

My first dinner was a comedy of translation errors. I ordered what I thought would be a light beef salad and ended up with what looked more like a full beef tenderloin dinner accompanied by grilled vegetables. I also specifically requested a regular local beer and somehow received a wheat beer. Yuck.  At that point I was too tired to care. The food was good, the weather was beautiful, and Kraków's Main Square was alive with people enjoying the evening.

One observation immediately stood out: Kraków residents seem to have mastered stylish casual dress. Everywhere I looked people appeared effortlessly fashionable without looking overdressed.

Milk Bars and Morning Walks

The next morning brought sunshine and temperatures climbing into the low 80s.

My first stop was a local milk bar for a simple breakfast of an egg and cheese sandwich with coffee. The entire meal cost only a few dollars and was delicious. 

Yummy.

More importantly, every attempt I made to speak even a few words of Polish was met with smiles and encouragement. A simple "hello," "thank you," or "goodbye" seemed to go a long way.

The day's wandering took me along the Vistula River toward the famous Wawel Dragon. Several groups of schoolchildren were gathered nearby, each identified by colorful hats or bandanas. They eagerly waited for the dragon to breathe fire, while I noticed something I hadn't before: a nearby tree had grown close enough to the statue that some branches appeared singed from repeated encounters with dragon flames.

That's some bad breath.

Not everything was charming. Along the river, I was constantly approached by people trying to sell tours and cruises. It's one aspect of tourism I could happily do without.

Laundry Day Adventures

Travel inevitably leads to laundry.

By midweek I had reached the critical point where clean underwear was becoming a scarce resource. Fortunately, I had already located a self-service laundromat. While exploring it earlier, I met a young Polish couple who noticed my curiosity and went out of their way to explain how everything worked.

The woman's English and my Polish were equally limited, but between gestures, smiles, and determination, we managed a conversation. At the end, I thanked them in Polish, and both immediately lit up. Experiences like that remind me how rewarding even small attempts at communication can be.

Card, with about $5 value on it.  Damn right I am taking it back.

Laundry itself proved less exciting. Machines ran longer than expected, drying took extra cycles, and a local café accidentally forgot my cappuccino order. Still, the coffee was excellent once it finally arrived.

Wandering Kazimierz

One of my favorite activities in Kraków is simply walking.

I spent several afternoons exploring Kazimierz, the historic Jewish district. Strong winds swept through the city, but the neighborhood remained inviting. I discovered cafés I had never noticed before and enjoyed one particularly memorable cappuccino while sitting in Singer Café, famous for its sewing-machine tables.

Lunches often came from milk bars, where hearty soups, white borscht, sausages, and other traditional dishes offered both comfort and incredible value.

What struck me this trip was how much less smoking I noticed compared to previous visits and compared with neighboring countries. Outdoor seating areas felt noticeably more pleasant.

Markets, Bikes, and Tourist Mistakes

Friday brought crisp weather and a mission to visit a local market.

Unfortunately, I arrived too early for breakfast at my favorite milk bar and had to improvise. The market was still setting up, but it quickly became apparent that it would be a wonderful source of fresh fruits and vegetables. If I return for a longer stay, shopping there will become part of my regular routine.

I also made one of the classic tourist mistakes: using a bank ATM without paying enough attention to exchange fees. The resulting surcharge wasn't catastrophic, but it served as a reminder that convenience often comes with a price.

Later in the day I rented a bicycle. The bike itself was surprisingly good—a sturdy 21-speed with disc brakes—and the rental process was refreshingly simple. No deposit. No credit card hold. Just a driver's license number.

Great rental place, great bike.

The city, however, was crowded. Construction projects and heavy pedestrian traffic limited how much riding I could really enjoy. After ninety minutes, I returned the bike and was pleasantly surprised when the shop prorated the rental fee, charging me only for the time used.

Veterans Day in the Square

That evening, Kraków's Main Square transformed into a celebration.

Polish Veterans Day.

Bleachers appeared, flags were raised, stages were assembled, and orchestras, singers, and speakers took turns entertaining the crowds. The atmosphere was festive and patriotic without feeling overwhelming.

For dinner, I chose a restaurant with outdoor seating and ordered a Greek salad, primarily because I realized I hadn't eaten enough vegetables all week.

So yummy.

 The salad paired perfectly with a surprisingly good South American wine. One glass became two, followed by a sambuca served in an elegant crystal glass.  The entire meal cost roughly thirty dollars.

One thing I continue to appreciate in Poland is that restaurants still serve food and drinks on proper plates and glassware. No disposable plastic. No shortcuts. Just simple, civilized dining.

Time to Move On

Departure day arrived too quickly.

I spent my final morning walking through a quiet Kraków before breakfast and eventually made my way to the airport bus. The trip to the airport went smoothly, although the driver seemed intent on proving that public transit can double as an amusement-park ride.

As I waited for my flight, I reflected on another enjoyable stay in one of my favorite European cities.

Kraków remains affordable, walkable, welcoming, and endlessly interesting. Whether it's conversations with strangers in laundromats, discovering a new café, or simply wandering without a destination, the city continues to reward curiosity.

As my flight lifted off toward the next stop on the journey—Ljubljana—I was already making mental notes for my next visit.

And perhaps packing a few more bandages.

More Krakow 2026 pics here.

A Long Island Weekend before Europe

Whenever I make it back to the East Coast, I like to pack as much visiting as possible into the trip. This time, the plan was a two-night stay with John and Karen Conkling at their new home on Long Island before continuing on to Europe.

I booked Business Class on Amtrak, departing Syracuse at 7:20 a.m. and arriving at New York's Penn Station around 12:30 p.m. From there, I took the Long Island Rail Road to Bay Shore. The connection at Babylon looked a little sketchy on paper, but in reality it was easy enough—I simply followed the crowd of passengers making the same transfer.

I've always enjoyed taking Amtrak over flying when possible. The total travel time is about the same, but the train offers far better scenery, especially along the Hudson River.

John was waiting to greet me at the Bay Shore station. After a tour of their new home, we spent some time catching up before Karen finished her workday and joined us. That evening we headed out to one of their favorite local breweries. Unfortunately, I can't remember the brewery's name, but I do remember arriving just as "Young Joe" was unlocking the front door. We were the first customers of the day.

We had a great time chatting with Young Joe behind the bar before the other Joe arrived and the place slowly filled up. The weekend had started cold, windy, and threatening rain—and eventually the rain arrived—but it didn't dampen our spirits. A couple of beers and plenty of conversation made for a fun afternoon.

From there we moved on to a cash-only local spot for some bar food and another round of drinks before calling it a night.

Golf, Breweries, and Bay Shore Nightlife

Saturday morning began with a steady drizzle, but around 10:30 the weather finally gave us a break. We took advantage of it by heading to a golf course in Babylon. The course was mostly short par-3 holes, with the longest around 180 yards and most ranging between 100 and 120 yards.

Despite my best efforts, I couldn't manage a par on any hole. Still, it was a blast. The round took about two hours and featured plenty of laughs, plenty of bad shots, and just enough good ones to keep us optimistic.

That evening we visited another brewery and met up with friends Lorraine and Lee, whom I remembered from previous Long Island visits. Courtney joined us as well. A band featuring three guitarists and light percussion provided the entertainment. As the evening progressed, the crowd grew, the music got louder, and the place filled with families and kids running around.

Afterward we headed into downtown Bay Shore for dinner. Our first restaurant choices came with hour-and-a-half waits, so we settled on The Dark Horse instead. Lorraine, Karen, and I shared three appetizers while the guys ordered entrées.

One source of entertainment came from a nearby table filled with twenty-something women who all seemed to be dressed from the same fashion playbook: bare shoulders, low-cut tops, high-waisted jeans, and very little concern for the fact that it was in the low 50s and raining outside. Fashion, it seems, requires commitment.

Eventually our food arrived, we enjoyed a leisurely meal, and then everyone headed home for the evening.

Onward to Europe

Sunday morning was a quieter affair. John had to leave early for work, so Karen and I spent some time talking while waiting for the rain to run its course. Karen later headed to the gym, and I used the downtime to confirm travel plans and prepare for the next leg of my journey.

We also made a grocery run to pick up supplies that John and Karen planned to bring to a party that evening. I had been invited as well, but my itinerary had other plans.

Later that afternoon, Karen dropped me off at the Babylon station. From there I took the Long Island Rail Road to Jamaica station, connected to JFK Airport, and began the long journey to Europe.

It was a short visit, but exactly the kind I enjoy most—good friends, plenty of conversation, a little golf, a few local breweries, and lots of laughs before setting off on a new adventure.

Lilacs, Madcatter, and Time with Friends

Friday, May 15 – Rochester's Lilac Festival

Friday's adventure began with plans to meet Wendy at Thruway Exit 38 and head to Rochester's Lilac Festival. Mesi joined us, and we traveled in her car for the day.

It was wonderful spending time with Wendy and Mesi. They are people whose energy lifts everyone around them. During the drive, Mesi sat in the back seat crocheting a pair of cutoff jeans with her own personalized color scheme. She also arrived wearing two different-colored Converse sneakers. Stylin’.

Our arrival at the festival started with a minor navigation challenge. We drove right past the parking entrance, realized our mistake, made a quick U-turn, and found our way back. Parking was $7, and the attendant mentioned she was running low on one-dollar bills. I offered to pay in singles, only to discover I had six instead of seven. She smiled and said, "Good enough".

The festival itself was pleasantly uncrowded when we arrived. As with most festivals, there were food trucks, vendors, and plenty of things for sale, but we quickly moved past those distractions to the real attraction: the plants, trees, flowers, and spring foliage.

Walking through the gardens with Wendy is like having a personal botanist. She seemed to know the name of nearly every tree, shrub, and flower we encountered. Mesi knew quite a few herself. The weather couldn't have been better—cool enough to start the day in a fleece, but warming steadily as the afternoon progressed.

By the time we were leaving, the crowds had begun arriving in earnest. Our timing had been perfect.

Ethiopian Lunch

The three of us had already agreed that lunch would be Ethiopian. On our way to the festival we'd passed a restaurant that looked promising, so we retraced our route and arrived just before 1 p.m at Addis Ababa restaurant.

Being a workday, we had the place entirely to ourselves.

The restaurant was warm and welcoming, decorated with Ethiopian artwork and posters. The aroma of spices greeted us the moment we opened the door. Wendy and Mesi quickly struck up a conversation with our waitress, who was originally from Ethiopia and, judging by the operation, may also have been the cook.

We ordered a traditional Ethiopian shared meal. A large platter arrived covered with injera, the soft, slightly tangy flatbread that serves as both plate and utensil. Arranged on top were a variety of dishes: spiced vegetables, collard greens, chicken, meat dishes, corn, and several other flavorful preparations. Additional baskets of rolled injera accompanied the meal.

Everything was delicious.

We also ordered Ethiopian coffee. Our waitress informed us that she had roasted the beans that very morning. The coffee was outstanding—rich, fresh, and aromatic.

After lunch we enjoyed the drive back to Exit 38, talking the entire way. There we parted in our various directions.

Madcatter 50th Anniversary Reunion

May 14–17

One of the primary reasons for my trip to New York was to attend the 50th Madcatter sailboat race. While I wasn't planning to sail, I signed up for the social events. That turned out to be a great decision—four days of breakfasts, dinners, unlimited beer and rum, and most importantly, the chance to reconnect with old friends and relive some wonderful memories.

My years sailing with Fleet 204 and participating in the Madcatter races during the late 1980s and early 1990s remain some of my fondest memories. The friendships forged during those years have endured the test of time, and the stories from those adventures have only grown more legendary with age.

I arrived in Syracuse the Tuesday before the festivities and attended a Fleet 204 meeting that evening. The welcome I received was heartwarming. More than 31 years have passed since I left for the West Coast, but the handshakes, hugs, smiles, and stories instantly transported me back to those days on the water.

It was especially wonderful catching up with Patrick and Theresa, Tom and Sue, Dick and Anne, Jim and Joanne, Rob and Darcy, Nicole and Jack, and Mimi. Seeing everyone again reminded me that while time moves on, friendships never fade.

One reunion stood out in particular. I had got to spend time with Toni Amico and her son. Toni and her family are doing well, and it was great to see how proud she was of her son as he and I talked. When we first met at the event, Toni greeted me with a warm hug. As the evening came to a close, she asked for another before we parted ways.  Toni, you are one of the good ones.

The 50th Madcatter celebration was far more than a reunion. It was a reminder of how special those sailing years were and how fortunate I am to have shared them with such remarkable people.

 

Monday, May 18 – Family Arrives

Tracy arrived from Albany with plans to stay through Friday.

We had intentionally postponed our Wegman’s shopping trip so that Tracy could be part of planning a family dinner at Bill's house. Bill was responsible for grilling salmon and another cut of meat, Tracy handled roasted vegetables, and my contribution was making sure there was another bottle of wine available.

The result was an excellent dinner and an enjoyable evening spent discussing everyone's plans for the year ahead.

Earlier in the day Bill and I ran a few errands and squeezed in a short walk through Liverpool Village and part of the nearby park before the heat became oppressive. By late afternoon temperatures had climbed to 92 degrees under full sunshine. It was definitely a day better spent indoors.

Tuesday, May 19 – Changing Plans

The morning brought an unexpected change.

Tracy received a message from Jan, who was dealing with severe back pain and trying to reach her doctor while considering urgent medical care. Jan was worried about what would happen to her dog if she became unavailable.

Tracy immediately shifted into problem-solving mode. Concerned about Jan's situation, she began arranging travel back to Tampa. Working with Corey, she secured an acceptable flight out of Albany. The timing worked well, allowing her to avoid a one-way rental car drop-off fee while still getting to the airport comfortably.

As Tracy headed east, the weather turned drizzly. Fortunately, everything lined up well enough for her travel plans.

Rain Delays and Good News

Bill had planned a walk with Scott that afternoon. Unfortunately, by the time Scott arrived the drizzle had become steady enough that walking no longer seemed appealing. Instead, we sat around the table and talked for a while.

On a positive note, the Long Island Rail Road strike had finally ended. Service was expected to resume at noon after beginning the previous Saturday. That was particularly welcome news since it affected my upcoming travel plans into New York City.

Later, Bill and I took his Hobie Cat trailer to storage.

The day eventually heated up again, reaching 92 degrees once the sun returned. At one point I managed to drift into an unintended nap after miscalculating the time zone we were in. I woke up to Bill announcing, "It's time to go."

Dinner at Riley's

That evening we met Wendy and Gordon at Riley's, an Irish restaurant near downtown Syracuse.

Bill and I arrived first and were promptly informed by the hostess that no one would be seated until the entire party arrived. No reservations. No exceptions. Efficient, direct.

Once everyone arrived, we were seated in the dining room. Riley's had exactly the atmosphere you'd expect from a long-standing Irish establishment: dark wood everywhere, lively conversations, and enough noise bouncing around the room that hearing anyone more than a few feet away became challenging.

Three of us ordered the lamb chops while Gordon chose the flounder. The lamb was particularly good, although the steak knives could have been sharper.

Conversation covered retirement plans, travel dreams, fishing trips, and future adventures. Gordon talked about fishing excursions and a possible elk hunting trip in Montana. Wendy and Gordon also discussed their plans to travel west with their truck and camper, making their way through Canada, the Rockies, and the western United States. One idea they're considering is storing both vehicle and camper somewhere on the West Coast, flying home for a period, and then returning later to continue exploring.

When dinner ended, everyone passed on dessert. We exchanged hugs and headed our separate ways.

I love these people.

A Walk and a Fire

Bill and I made one final stop at Onondaga Park before heading home. The temperature had finally dropped into the 70s, making for a pleasant evening stroll. Naturally, the cooling air around the lake also brought out the bugs.

Back at the house we enjoyed a nightcap by the firepit.

Later, while Bill worked on various Madcatter projects, I found my own task for the evening: repairing his sliding screen door. One of the rollers had seized up, but a healthy dose of WD-40 brought it back to life.

A small repair, a good conversation, a warm fire, and time spent with family and friends—it felt like a fitting end to several very good days.

This is why I travel to New York.

Waterfalls and Gorges in Finger Lakes

My trip to New York began with a red-eye flight out of San Diego bound for Washington Dulles. As I boarded and made my way to my assigned seat, I found a young woman comfortably settled into my window seat. I politely informed her that she was in my seat. She replied, "OK," and immediately went back to texting on her phone.

After waiting a few seconds, I asked if the texting could wait until she got out of my seat. It finally dawned on her that she might actually be in the wrong place. With some assistance from her friend—who pointed out that she was in an entirely different row—she realized her mistake. Fortunately, the flight was fairly empty, and both of them relocated elsewhere. The remainder of the journey was thankfully uneventful.

Letchworth State Park

On Wednesday morning, Bill and I headed south toward Letchworth State Park. We took the Thruway to the Canandaigua exit, where we stopped for coffee, tea, and a pastry to share. Afterward, we enjoyed a leisurely stroll through town.

The weather was cool and threatening rain, but we pressed onward toward Letchworth. Somewhere along the way, Apple Maps and Google Maps decided to offer competing opinions about how to reach the north entrance. After some confusion and a few wrong turns, we finally found the correct route.

When we arrived at the park entrance, the gatehouse was empty and signs indicated it was closed. However, the road ahead appeared perfectly open, so we continued into the park.

A light mist was falling, and the temperatures remained chilly. As it turned out, the weather worked in our favor. The rain seemed to keep most visitors away, giving us the park almost entirely to ourselves.

Letchworth is laid out along the Genesee River, with numerous overlooks providing spectacular views of the gorge and waterfalls. We stopped at the dam and several scenic viewpoints. At most stops there was only one other vehicle, if any at all.

At one overlook near the end of our day's exploration, Bill and I found ourselves completely alone. We listened to birds chatting in the trees while the Genesee River tumbled through the gorge far below. Low clouds drifted through the valley, sprinkling occasional drops of rain across the landscape.

CBS Sunday Morning video

I turned to Bill and said, "This is one of those CBS Sunday Morning closing video moments."

Neither of us wanted to leave.

We intentionally skipped a few overlooks because our goal was to reach the Glen Iris Inn before sunset. We made note of where we stopped, planning to resume our exploration the following morning.

An Evening at the Glen Iris Inn

Glen Iris Inn

About thirty minutes later, we arrived at the Glen Iris Inn. The inn occupies one of the most spectacular locations in the park, overlooking the magnificent Middle Falls.

After checking into our room, we wandered outside to stretch our legs and admire the falls. The mist from both the rain and the waterfall combined to create an atmosphere that felt distinctly Letchworth.

Dinner was at the inn, largely because there weren't many other practical options without a lengthy drive.

Later that evening, we enjoyed a few medicinal doses of what I like to call "poison" before taking another stroll outside. Eventually, the cold drove us back indoors, where we spent time in the charming Letchworth library located within the inn.

During our stay, Bill noticed that several park features, benches, and kiosks were dedicated to someone named Caroline. Curious, he began asking staff members who Caroline was.

The answer: Caroline had been William Pryor Letchworth's much younger personal assistant.

She was not his wife.

Draw your own conclusions.

More Letchworth and On to Ithaca

The following morning, we checked out and returned to the point where we had ended our sightseeing the previous day. We spent several more hours exploring additional overlooks and enjoying views of the Genesee River carving its way through the gorge.

The scenery was simply stunning.

From there we continued southeast toward Watkins Glen. Upon arriving, we walked through town and stopped at the visitor center. Conversations with the staff quickly revealed why the area seemed unusually crowded: NASCAR weekend had arrived at Watkins Glen International.

Suddenly the influx of campers, RVs, and race fans made perfect sense.

Bill and I took one look around and decided that NASCAR weekend was not part of our itinerary. We moved on to Ithaca.

Returning to Cornell

Finding our Airbnb proved slightly more challenging than expected. Between street names and navigation apps, we experienced another round of map-induced confusion. Once sorted out, however, the place was easy to find.

Our host, Bob, operated a hair salon on the first floor and seemed eager to chat. While friendly, Bill and I were anxious to get settled and begin exploring. We eventually managed a graceful exit from the conversation and checked into what turned out to be an excellent Airbnb.

The downtown Commons was only a block away, making it an easy destination for an afternoon walk and dinner.

We had intentionally scheduled two nights in Ithaca so we could spend a day revisiting Cornell University.

Rather than tackling the entire uphill climb on foot, we wisely drove partway onto campus and found parking. Our first stop was the Big Red Barn. By fortunate timing, it happened to be the final day before summer shutdown, so activity was minimal and staff seemed mostly occupied with closing procedures.

From there we wandered through campus, revisiting familiar locations while also exploring some newer facilities. We found our way into the nanotechnology building, where we could peer into laboratories occupied by researchers dressed in full bunny suits.

One gallery and library space featured artwork that neither of us found particularly memorable, but the panoramic view from the upper floor was exceptional.

Library Top Floor View

Naturally, a visit to Cornell would not be complete without a stop at the Dairy Bar. While enjoying our ice cream cones, we overheard what appeared to be a graduating student treating members of his research group to one final gathering. He thanked them for their work and asked about their summer plans. It felt very much like a farewell moment and a fitting reminder that the academic year was ending.

That evening we returned to the Commons for another pleasant dinner downtown.

Skaneateles and Doug's Fish Fry

The next morning we checked out and began the drive back toward Liverpool.  But before leaving Ithaca, we stopped at Ithaca Falls.

As usual, our route took us through Skaneateles. With the rain finally gone, we were able to enjoy a leisurely walk through one of the prettiest villages in Central New York. The lake was beautiful, the town was bustling, and the weather had finally decided to cooperate.

No visit would be complete without lunch at Doug's Fish Fry.

Bill and I split a fish plate. I added a beer while Bill opted for a Pepsi. After successfully increasing our grease content, we continued on toward Liverpool.

Bill was eager to get back. Madcatter season was approaching, and he anticipated that questions, issues, and assorted sailing-related matters would soon begin demanding his attention.

For my part, I was content. We had spent several days exploring waterfalls, gorges, college campuses, and small towns while avoiding crowds, enjoying good food, and sharing plenty of laughs along the way.

Not a bad way to spend a few days in New York.