Sometimes travel days simply refuse to cooperate.
My journey to
Kraków began at JFK, where I arrived early, hoping to switch to an earlier flight.
With only a 1-hour-10-minute connection in Amsterdam, I was already uneasy
about making my onward flight. As it turns out, changing international flights
isn't quite that simple. After some waiting around the terminal, my flight
finally departed about thirty minutes late, effectively destroying any chance
of making the connection.
KLM had already
rebooked me onto a later flight, turning a tight connection into a four-hour
layover at Amsterdam Schiphol Airport. Fortunately, I found an excellent coffee
shop that helped revive me after the overnight flight. The airline did its part
too, serving two meals on the transatlantic leg and a customary cheese sandwich
on the hop to Poland. It seemed appropriate that Amsterdam would greet
travelers with cheese.
Getting from
Kraków Airport into the city was every bit as easy as the YouTube videos
promised. Large arrows on the floor practically escorted passengers to the
train station. Purchasing a ticket was simple once I found a machine offering
English. The only challenge was figuring out which train to board among several
that looked nearly identical.
Back in Familiar Territory
Arriving in
Kraków felt like coming home.
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| Room 24, my polish home. |
I was staying
once again at Bracka 6, a place I've grown fond of over previous visits.
Finding it should have been easy, but my navigation skills took a temporary
vacation after the long journey. Once I spotted the familiar church steeple,
however, I immediately knew where I was.
After checking in
and reacquainting myself with the building's entry system—which seemed to have
changed since my last stay—I unpacked, showered, and headed out in search of
food before jet lag claimed victory.
My first dinner
was a comedy of translation errors. I ordered what I thought would be a light
beef salad and ended up with what looked more like a full beef tenderloin
dinner accompanied by grilled vegetables. I also specifically requested a
regular local beer and somehow received a wheat beer. Yuck. At that point
I was too tired to care. The food was good, the weather was beautiful, and
Kraków's Main Square was alive with people enjoying the evening.
One observation
immediately stood out: Kraków residents seem to have mastered stylish casual
dress. Everywhere I looked people appeared effortlessly fashionable without
looking overdressed.
Milk Bars and Morning Walks
The next morning
brought sunshine and temperatures climbing into the low 80s.
My first stop was a local milk bar for a simple breakfast of an egg and cheese sandwich with coffee. The entire meal cost only a few dollars and was delicious.
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| Yummy. |
More importantly, every attempt I made to speak even a few words of Polish was met with smiles and encouragement. A simple "hello," "thank you," or "goodbye" seemed to go a long way.
The day's
wandering took me along the Vistula River toward the famous Wawel Dragon.
Several groups of schoolchildren were gathered nearby, each identified by
colorful hats or bandanas. They eagerly waited for the dragon to breathe fire,
while I noticed something I hadn't before: a nearby tree had grown close enough
to the statue that some branches appeared singed from repeated encounters with
dragon flames.
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| That's some bad breath. |
Not everything
was charming. Along the river, I was constantly approached by people trying to
sell tours and cruises. It's one aspect of tourism I could happily do without.
Laundry Day Adventures
Travel inevitably
leads to laundry.
By midweek I had
reached the critical point where clean underwear was becoming a scarce
resource. Fortunately, I had already located a self-service laundromat. While
exploring it earlier, I met a young Polish couple who noticed my curiosity and
went out of their way to explain how everything worked.
The woman's
English and my Polish were equally limited, but between gestures, smiles, and
determination, we managed a conversation. At the end, I thanked them in Polish,
and both immediately lit up. Experiences like that remind me how rewarding even
small attempts at communication can be.
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| Card, with about $5 value on it. Damn right I am taking it back. |
Laundry itself
proved less exciting. Machines ran longer than expected, drying took extra cycles,
and a local café accidentally forgot my cappuccino order. Still, the coffee was
excellent once it finally arrived.
Wandering Kazimierz
One of my
favorite activities in Kraków is simply walking.
I spent several
afternoons exploring Kazimierz, the historic Jewish district. Strong winds
swept through the city, but the neighborhood remained inviting. I discovered
cafés I had never noticed before and enjoyed one particularly memorable
cappuccino while sitting in Singer Café, famous for its sewing-machine tables.
Lunches often
came from milk bars, where hearty soups, white borscht, sausages, and other
traditional dishes offered both comfort and incredible value.
What struck me
this trip was how much less smoking I noticed compared to previous visits and
compared with neighboring countries. Outdoor seating areas felt noticeably more
pleasant.
Markets, Bikes, and Tourist Mistakes
Friday brought
crisp weather and a mission to visit a local market.
Unfortunately, I
arrived too early for breakfast at my favorite milk bar and had to improvise.
The market was still setting up, but it quickly became apparent that it would
be a wonderful source of fresh fruits and vegetables. If I return for a longer
stay, shopping there will become part of my regular routine.
I also made one
of the classic tourist mistakes: using a bank ATM without paying enough
attention to exchange fees. The resulting surcharge wasn't catastrophic, but it
served as a reminder that convenience often comes with a price.
Later in the day
I rented a bicycle. The bike itself was surprisingly good—a sturdy 21-speed
with disc brakes—and the rental process was refreshingly simple. No deposit. No
credit card hold. Just a driver's license number.
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| Great rental place, great bike. |
The city,
however, was crowded. Construction projects and heavy pedestrian traffic
limited how much riding I could really enjoy. After ninety minutes, I returned
the bike and was pleasantly surprised when the shop prorated the rental fee,
charging me only for the time used.
Veterans Day in the Square
That evening, Kraków's Main Square transformed into a celebration.
 |
| Polish Veterans Day. |
Bleachers
appeared, flags were raised, stages were assembled, and orchestras, singers,
and speakers took turns entertaining the crowds. The atmosphere was festive and
patriotic without feeling overwhelming.
For dinner, I chose a restaurant with outdoor seating and ordered a Greek salad, primarily because I realized I hadn't eaten enough vegetables all week.
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| So yummy. |
The salad paired perfectly with a surprisingly good South American wine. One glass became two, followed by a sambuca served in an elegant crystal glass. The entire meal cost roughly thirty dollars.
One thing I
continue to appreciate in Poland is that restaurants still serve food and
drinks on proper plates and glassware. No disposable plastic. No shortcuts.
Just simple, civilized dining.
Time to Move On
Departure day
arrived too quickly.
I spent my final
morning walking through a quiet Kraków before breakfast and eventually made my
way to the airport bus. The trip to the airport went smoothly, although the
driver seemed intent on proving that public transit can double as an
amusement-park ride.
As I waited for
my flight, I reflected on another enjoyable stay in one of my favorite European
cities.
Kraków remains
affordable, walkable, welcoming, and endlessly interesting. Whether it's
conversations with strangers in laundromats, discovering a new café, or simply
wandering without a destination, the city continues to reward curiosity.
As my flight
lifted off toward the next stop on the journey—Ljubljana—I was already making
mental notes for my next visit.
And perhaps
packing a few more bandages.
More Krakow 2026 pics here.
