May 31 – Arrival in Ljubljana
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| View from old town to castle. |
Departure day began as most travel days do—early. I was up at 5:15 a.m., grabbed a shower, packed my bags, and headed out for one last walk around Kraków before leaving. The forecasted rain never arrived, which made for a pleasant final morning wandering the quiet streets and watching the city wake up.
Breakfast was a hearty Polish affair that seemed to include just about everything on the menu. Combined with a cappuccino, it cost around $15 and was far more food than I needed. Still, it was a fitting farewell meal before beginning the journey south.
The bus ride to the airport was memorable mostly because of the driver, who appeared determined to set a personal record for acceleration and braking. My luggage spent much of the trip trying to escape across the bus floor.
By evening, I arrived in Ljubljana, Slovenia's capital. A shuttle driver offered to take me directly to my hotel rather than dropping me at the bus station, and during the ride we had an enjoyable conversation about Slovenia, tourism, and current events. Since cars are restricted from entering parts of the old town, he got me as close as possible before I walked the remaining distance.
My room was noticeably smaller than previous accommodations—almost cruise-ship sized—but it would do for the next several days.
June 1 – First Impressions
After a night of intermittent sleep and a brief rain shower, I spent the morning wandering Ljubljana.
My first stop was coffee and a croissant at a small café. The coffee was excellent.
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| Damn fine coffee. |
My initial impression of the city was that it felt somewhat like Prague, though on a much smaller scale. There was colorful graffiti (yuck), plenty of walking tours, and groups of tourists exploring the old town. Unlike Prague, however, Ljubljana felt more intimate and relaxed.
I could immediately understand why travelers often praise Slovenia. The city itself is charming, but the real draw seems to be the countryside and mountains surrounding it.
June 2 – Planning for Lake Bled
One goal of this visit was a trip to Lake Bled.
Unfortunately, figuring out transportation turned out to be far more complicated than expected. The bus station offered little guidance, online ticketing was unavailable due to what was described as a "system upgrade," and information was scattered.
Eventually I located the bus schedules and determined that reaching Lake Bled would require a full-day commitment. The lake itself deserved several hours of exploration, and transportation could take anywhere from one to two hours each way.
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While planning, I continued exploring Ljubljana. One of my favorite discoveries became a fruit vendor in the central market. Each day I stopped by for something new—cherries, nectarines, strawberries, and several varieties of fruit I couldn't even identify. Everything tasted incredibly fresh.
The central market itself was impressive. Produce looked pristine, and the growing season was already well underway compared to what I was accustomed to back home in upstate New York.
I also found a vendor selling hats and finally purchased a properly sized Panama hat for €12—far better than the one I had unsuccessfully tried to buy from Amazon.
June 3 – Rain Day
Rain dominated most of the day.
I spent the morning watching downpours roll through the city while enjoying fruit purchased the previous day. Once the weather improved, I headed out for coffee, people-watching, and a leisurely walk around town.
One thing I noticed repeatedly was how active the typical travelers seemed to be. Outdoor gear shops were everywhere, catering to hikers, climbers, and adventurers heading into Slovenia's mountains.
That evening I enjoyed ramen and sake for dinner. The food was good, if not quite as hot as I would have preferred.
I also finalized plans for departure later in the week, arranging airport shuttle transportation and confirming luggage storage with the hotel.
June 4 – Lake Bled at Last
After several days of weather concerns and indecision, I finally committed to visiting Lake Bled.
I purchased round-trip bus tickets for €14.10 and boarded what turned out to be a local route rather than an express. The trip took nearly two hours, including numerous stops and even a detour through the airport.
The moment I arrived, however, any transportation frustrations disappeared.
Lake Bled is stunning.
The turquoise water, mountain backdrop, island church, and medieval castle create one of the most picturesque landscapes I've seen in Europe. The setting reminded me somewhat of Skaneateles Lake back home, though with centuries of history added to the scenery.
Before beginning my walk around the lake, I treated myself to the famous Bled cream cake. Rich custard, flaky pastry, and enough sugar to fuel an afternoon of hiking—it was exactly what I needed.
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| Sugar overload. |
I then set off clockwise around the lake. What I had believed would be a short three-kilometer stroll turned out to be closer to six kilometers. Fortunately, every step provided spectacular views.
One of the most enjoyable aspects was the absence of motorized boats. The lake was peaceful and quiet. Rowboats carried visitors to the island while families paddled rental boats across the water. In the distance, mountains rose into the clouds.
The walk took several hours because I frequently stopped simply to admire the scenery.
The return trip proved much easier. By chance I found an express bus back to Ljubljana, cutting travel time nearly in half.
It was one of those days that completely justified the effort required to make it happen.
June 6 – Final Day in Slovenia
My last day in Slovenia was spent exploring Ljubljana one final time.
I rode the funicular up to Ljubljana Castle, mainly for the views rather than the castle itself. The ride offered excellent panoramas over the city, and I later walked back down through a beautiful forest path.
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| View up the Funicular. |
Reflecting on the visit, Ljubljana struck me as a highly livable city. It's compact, easy to navigate, full of cafés, and extremely walkable. Backpackers seem to love it, and there is a youthful, active energy throughout the city.
That said, when I compare it to places such as Kraków or Budapest, it doesn't offer the same depth of history or sense of grandeur. I enjoyed my time there immensely, but if given the choice between returning to Ljubljana or revisiting Kraków or Budapest, I would likely choose the latter.
Still, Slovenia left a strong impression. The combination of a charming capital city, friendly people, beautiful countryside, and the unforgettable scenery of Lake Bled made it a worthwhile stop on this European journey.
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| Notice the mountains are IN the clouds. |
That afternoon I collected my luggage and headed for the airport. A small transportation misunderstanding resulted in an unexpectedly expensive taxi ride, but by then it was simply another travel story to add to the collection.
More Slovenia Pics here.
The flight to London was smooth. After arriving at Heathrow, I successfully navigated the airport, boarded the Heathrow Express to Paddington, and was greeted by Sara.
Another chapter of the trip had come to an end, and the London portion of the adventure was about to begin.
