London Visit

 A Day with the Dorans: Family Mayhem, the Rosetta Stone, and a Pint at the Black Friar

Monday, June 8

There is nothing quite like spending time with a young family to remind you how simple life can be when you only have yourself to worry about!

My visit with the Dorans gave me a firsthand look at the mayhem and occasional calamity of raising two young daughters. I came away with a new appreciation for what it takes to get everyone up, dressed, fed, and moving on schedule. The patience, wisdom, and organizational skills required of parents are nothing short of remarkable. Compared with their daily routine, my own life seems wonderfully uncomplicated. I even made a point of telling both Chris and Sara that I now fully appreciate the value of grocery delivery!

Before arriving, I had given the Dorans my personal wish list for the visit:

• Spend time with the Doran family.
• See the Rosetta Stone at the British Museum.
• Visit the Black Friar pub and, at a minimum, enjoy a pint.

As it turned out, we managed to check off all three!

A Busy Household and Some Unexpected Company

My first morning at the Doran home began with a surprise. Another family was staying with them, and I got to watch their three children running around before meeting their parents, Aga and Dan. They were a lovely young couple. They were preparing for their next stop in Kraków, where Aga was originally from, so they grabbed a quick breakfast and headed out the door for the airport.

Meanwhile, I was getting acquainted with the lively rhythms of the Doran household.

One of the highlights came when six-year-old Amelia surprised me by knowing about the Black Friar pub. Not only did she know about it, but she confidently informed me that she would show me around when we got there. She even knew about the pub's dumbwaiter, which delivers food to the pub floor.

I was impressed. It's always nice to have a local guide who knows the good pubs in town. In this case, my guide was six years old!

The British Museum: A Checkmark and an Education

We puttered around the house until about 12:30 p.m., then set off for the British Museum.

It didn't take us long to find the Rosetta Stone, so I could check off another item on my wish list. But the museum offered another discovery: Chris is practically a kid again when he visits a place like this. His enthusiasm for the exhibits, their history, and their significance was infectious.

Impressive

Chris had several other items he wanted to see, so off we went to find them, including some in the museum's Enlightenment Gallery. After about an hour and a half, however, I had reached my limit. The museum is extraordinary, but its sheer size and the volume of things to see can be overwhelming. I finally told Chris that I needed to check out mentally and find somewhere to sit down.

It was becoming clear that fatigue was catching up with everyone except Chris!

Still, we rallied, made our way to a bus stop, and caught a ride that got us closer to our next destination: the Black Friar pub.

London Without a Car: Why Bother?

A quick observation about the Dorans' life in London: they don't have a car, and I can understand why.

In a city like London, a car can be more of a burden than a convenience. Traffic, parking, and navigating the streets would make driving a challenge. Chris doesn't drive, and with London's public transportation system, why bother with a car?

The buses were remarkably effective. They moved plenty of people around the city, the passengers were courteous, and the whole system seemed to work smoothly. We got where we needed to go without the aggravation of driving or searching for parking.

After our bus ride, we walked the remaining distance to the Black Friar.

The Black Friar: A Pint, a Dumbwaiter, and Dinner

The Black Friar was a particularly satisfying stop because my last visit had been sometime in the last century. When I mentioned that to the bartenders, they got a laugh out of it!

We found seats inside the bar area, and Amelia was eager to show me the famous dumbwaiter. Having a six-year-old enthusiastically lead the tour made the experience even better.

Chris and I then went to the bar to order our food and drinks. Earlier, I had asked whether they served Smithwick's beer, but they didn't. So I asked the bartenders for a recommendation for a pilsner or lager.

They pointed out that they had the American beer Budweiser, although the name on the menu was a little different. They also recommended another tasty option. Our conversation turned to breweries, and I learned about the brewery in Camden and its tours. That's another item to add to the list for a future visit!

Dinner arrived, and I enjoyed a very good schnitzel. Looking back, I probably should have ordered one of the meat pies instead. They looked tempting, and I'll have to correct that oversight next time.

The food worked wonders. After a long afternoon at the museum and the journey across town, everyone seemed to regain a little energy. We were full, tired, and ready to call it a day, but we had enough left in the tank to board the bus and head back to the Doran home.

It had been a good day all around.

By about 8 p.m., we were all ready for bed. I slept well!

A Morning of Hugs and Goodbyes

The following morning began with coffee, a little tidying up, and the usual business of getting everyone ready to leave the house.

We all headed out at about the same time. Sara was walking the girls to school, while Chris accompanied me to Paddington Station.

There were hugs all around, with one notable exception: Harper wasn't interested in hugging me.

Sara came to the rescue. She picked Harper up and announced that she needed another Randy hug, this time with Harper in her arms.

Well played, Sara. Well played!

And with that, my visit with the Dorans came to an end.

The Best Part of Traveling

I hope the Dorans get as much out of these visits as I do. For me, the opportunity to spend time with family, watch the children grow, and participate in their everyday lives is every bit as valuable as visiting a world-famous museum or discovering a historic London pub.

The Rosetta Stone was certainly worth seeing, and the Black Friar lived up to its place on my wish list. But the real highlight was being part of the family's daily routine, even if only briefly.

Slovenia: Rainy Days, Lake Bled, and a Small Capital

May 31 – Arrival in Ljubljana

View from old town to castle.

Departure day began as most travel days do—early. I was up at 5:15 a.m., grabbed a shower, packed my bags, and headed out for one last walk around Kraków before leaving. The forecasted rain never arrived, which made for a pleasant final morning wandering the quiet streets and watching the city wake up.

Breakfast was a hearty Polish affair that seemed to include just about everything on the menu. Combined with a cappuccino, it cost around $15 and was far more food than I needed. Still, it was a fitting farewell meal before beginning the journey south.

The bus ride to the airport was memorable mostly because of the driver, who appeared determined to set a personal record for acceleration and braking. My luggage spent much of the trip trying to escape across the bus floor.

By evening, I arrived in Ljubljana, Slovenia's capital. A shuttle driver offered to take me directly to my hotel rather than dropping me at the bus station, and during the ride we had an enjoyable conversation about Slovenia, tourism, and current events. Since cars are restricted from entering parts of the old town, he got me as close as possible before I walked the remaining distance.

My room was noticeably smaller than previous accommodations—almost cruise-ship sized—but it would do for the next several days.

June 1 – First Impressions

After a night of intermittent sleep and a brief rain shower, I spent the morning wandering Ljubljana.

My first stop was coffee and a croissant at a small café. The coffee was excellent.

Damn fine coffee.

My initial impression of the city was that it felt somewhat like Prague, though on a much smaller scale. There was colorful graffiti (yuck), plenty of walking tours, and groups of tourists exploring the old town. Unlike Prague, however, Ljubljana felt more intimate and relaxed.

I could immediately understand why travelers often praise Slovenia. The city itself is charming, but the real draw seems to be the countryside and mountains surrounding it.

June 2 – Planning for Lake Bled

One goal of this visit was a trip to Lake Bled.

Unfortunately, figuring out transportation turned out to be far more complicated than expected. The bus station offered little guidance, online ticketing was unavailable due to what was described as a "system upgrade," and information was scattered.

Eventually I located the bus schedules and determined that reaching Lake Bled would require a full-day commitment. The lake itself deserved several hours of exploration, and transportation could take anywhere from one to two hours each way.

While planning, I continued exploring Ljubljana. One of my favorite discoveries became a fruit vendor in the central market. Each day I stopped by for something new—cherries, nectarines, strawberries, and several varieties of fruit I couldn't even identify. Everything tasted incredibly fresh.

The central market itself was impressive. Produce looked pristine, and the growing season was already well underway compared to what I was accustomed to back home in upstate New York.

I also found a vendor selling hats and finally purchased a properly sized Panama hat for €12—far better than the one I had unsuccessfully tried to buy from Amazon.

June 3 – Rain Day

Rain dominated most of the day.

I spent the morning watching downpours roll through the city while enjoying fruit purchased the previous day. Once the weather improved, I headed out for coffee, people-watching, and a leisurely walk around town.

One thing I noticed repeatedly was how active the typical travelers seemed to be. Outdoor gear shops were everywhere, catering to hikers, climbers, and adventurers heading into Slovenia's mountains.

That evening I enjoyed ramen and sake for dinner. The food was good, if not quite as hot as I would have preferred.

I also finalized plans for departure later in the week, arranging airport shuttle transportation and confirming luggage storage with the hotel.

June 4 – Lake Bled at Last

After several days of weather concerns and indecision, I finally committed to visiting Lake Bled.

I purchased round-trip bus tickets for €14.10 and boarded what turned out to be a local route rather than an express. The trip took nearly two hours, including numerous stops and even a detour through the airport.

The moment I arrived, however, any transportation frustrations disappeared.

Lake Bled is stunning.

The turquoise water, mountain backdrop, island church, and medieval castle create one of the most picturesque landscapes I've seen in Europe. The setting reminded me somewhat of Skaneateles Lake back home, though with centuries of history added to the scenery.

Before beginning my walk around the lake, I treated myself to the famous Bled cream cake. Rich custard, flaky pastry, and enough sugar to fuel an afternoon of hiking—it was exactly what I needed.

Sugar overload.

I then set off clockwise around the lake. What I had believed would be a short three-kilometer stroll turned out to be closer to six kilometers. Fortunately, every step provided spectacular views.

One of the most enjoyable aspects was the absence of motorized boats. The lake was peaceful and quiet. Rowboats carried visitors to the island while families paddled rental boats across the water. In the distance, mountains rose into the clouds.

The walk took several hours because I frequently stopped simply to admire the scenery.

The return trip proved much easier. By chance I found an express bus back to Ljubljana, cutting travel time nearly in half.

It was one of those days that completely justified the effort required to make it happen.

June 6 – Final Day in Slovenia

My last day in Slovenia was spent exploring Ljubljana one final time.

I rode the funicular up to Ljubljana Castle, mainly for the views rather than the castle itself. The ride offered excellent panoramas over the city, and I later walked back down through a beautiful forest path.

View up the Funicular.

Reflecting on the visit, Ljubljana struck me as a highly livable city. It's compact, easy to navigate, full of cafés, and extremely walkable. Backpackers seem to love it, and there is a youthful, active energy throughout the city.

That said, when I compare it to places such as Kraków or Budapest, it doesn't offer the same depth of history or sense of grandeur. I enjoyed my time there immensely, but if given the choice between returning to Ljubljana or revisiting Kraków or Budapest, I would likely choose the latter.

Still, Slovenia left a strong impression. The combination of a charming capital city, friendly people, beautiful countryside, and the unforgettable scenery of Lake Bled made it a worthwhile stop on this European journey.

Notice the mountains are IN the clouds.

That afternoon I collected my luggage and headed for the airport. A small transportation misunderstanding resulted in an unexpectedly expensive taxi ride, but by then it was simply another travel story to add to the collection.

More Slovenia Pics here.

The flight to London was smooth. After arriving at Heathrow, I successfully navigated the airport, boarded the Heathrow Express to Paddington, and was greeted by Sara.

Another chapter of the trip had come to an end, and the London portion of the adventure was about to begin.