Sunday, September 6
I was awake again during the night,
spending some time on the computer after 1 a.m. Bill also had trouble sleeping
and got up for a while. Eventually, I managed to get back to sleep and woke at
5:56 a.m., just ahead of my 6 a.m. alarm.
We had plenty of time before our
9:30 a.m. boat departure. We repacked, tidied up, and headed into town for our
usual salmon-and-cheese sandwich to share before boarding.
Bill suggested we get in line early.
We followed his advice, boarded the catamaran, stowed our luggage, and made our
way to the upper deck.
We had dressed as warmly as we
could, but once the boat got underway, the wind chill was substantial. We
alternated between standing outside to enjoy the views and going inside to thaw
out.
The fjord scenery was extraordinary:
towering cliffs, countless waterfalls, and stretches of water framed by steep
mountainsides. Whenever the views became especially impressive, the indoor
cabin emptied as everyone rushed outside to take photographs.
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| Incredible views. |
One surprise was the number of
villages tucked into the landscape. Even in this dramatic terrain, people had
found places to live and build communities.
When we arrived at our destination,
Gudvangen, we hurried toward the bus. We assumed everyone leaving the boat
would be competing for seats, but that turned out not to be the case. Only
about ten people seemed to be waiting for the bus.
I thought the bus departed at noon,
so I figured I had time to use the restroom next to the bus. I told the driver
I was stepping away and started walking. He said something in Norwegian and
pointed toward the facilities.
I took care of business and returned
just in time to see the bus pulling away.
There was Bill, standing in the bus front
window, waving at me.
I could hardly believe it. The
driver knew I was going to the restroom, yet the bus was already departing.
Fortunately, Bill was on board, and I wasn't about to spend the afternoon
searching for another bus to Voss.
Once the bus began climbing uphill,
I finally understood where all that waterfall water came from. Up above, there
were lakes and reservoirs of natural water feeding the cascades below. Mystery
solved.
We arrived in Voss and passed our
hotel, the Fleischer's Hotel, on the way into town, making it easy to backtrack
and drop off our luggage. Then we went looking for lunch and a beer.
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| Fleischer's Hotel |
This is where we encountered a
recurring theme: It's Sunday.
We found a pharmacy. Closed.
We found an Irish pub. Closed.
Across the street, however, was a
simple diner. Open! What a revelation. Bill and I each had a beer and split a
sausage lunch.
Afterward, we wandered around town.
One thing we noticed was how many people wore technical outdoor clothing and
carried walking poles, even when navigating ordinary sidewalks. There were
plenty of shops selling high-tech trousers and outdoor gear. Norway takes its
outdoor lifestyle seriously.
Our hotel room felt like a penthouse
suite compared with our cramped accommodation in Flåm. There was actually room
to move around.
Later, we walked along the water.
Voss was lovely, with glassy conditions on the lake and beautiful homes
climbing the surrounding hills. There were no boats out on the water, perhaps
because the water temperature was only about 51°F.
We eventually returned to the one
place we had found open earlier. Bill asked a passing employee whether we
should sit down and wait for service or order inside.
The answer was essentially: “The
seats are here. The beers are in there. Figure it out.”
So we did.
We continued walking around town and
stopped in a grocery store, where we finally located the beer coolers.
Unfortunately, the cooler handles were secured with zip ties.
It's Sunday.
Dinner became a takeaway pizza and a
couple of beers from one of the few establishments still operating. We were
learning that in Norway, Sunday planning is not optional.
More Fjord and Voss pics here.
